Friday, 20 March 2015

a new design for ink + adventure


I've been itching for a new blog design for months now - the previous version having been around since last July when I taught myself some CSS basics. every time I go to redesign my blog I have the "hire someone or learn to do it myself" struggle. obviously, I want it to look professional. and I know at least ten blogger friends who do beautiful design work. but I love the idea that this space is something I've created - my words, my art, my voice.

this new design is probably the most labor intensive I've ever attempted. from hand painting the elements to coding research and all the photoshop... I've been busy.


I am not exaggerating when I say that I spent HOURS practicing my brush lettering. I tried seven different brushes/pens before settling on the Pentel Aquash brush. [and started 4 designs with script I ended up NOT using.] I probably could have kept writing until I found something a little more perfect. but at some point you have to call it good and dive into the actual designing.



given the number of branding boards I scoured through on pinterest, I felt the need to make one of my own. you can tell I'm not a pro since I forgot to label the pantone colors and the font [Lato 300.]

my initial color scheme was green and black and gold. I started playing with foil on the lettering. then I swapped out the green for a coral color. and then I went crazy and added little dots that looked like confetti. but the brush lettering plus gold plus confetti was just too much. so I swapped the confetti for some paint splats and nixed the gold foil.


I've also added some brush lettering elements to my travel page, Taiwan page, and about page. [though the about page is still in need of a content update!] I haven't come up will a full set of badges and buttons just yet, but at the moment I'm rethinking my sponsorship strategies so not in a rush.

I feel like there's still something not quite there but I can't put my finger on it. maybe that this design doesn't really say "travel"? though it's tough to get that across without the obvious airplanes, suitcases, globes or maps. maybe next time around? but it's time for this labor of love to be implemented [if only so I will stop making changes!] there will probably be a few tweaks left to make, so let me know if you have any issues with links or with elements displaying funny.

what so you think of the new design? do you design your own blog or hire a professional?
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Wednesday, 18 March 2015

packing list: 3 weeks in New Zealand


one of the most stressful things about planning our trip to New Zealand was figuring out what to pack. our three week itinerary covered both north and south islands, we planned to both camp and stay in nice hotels, and would visit everything from mountains to the beach. oh, and we had a day-long layover in Seoul where it was freezing winter weather.

we visited during february - which is summer in New Zealand - and the expected range of temperatures was from lows of 50F at night to highs of 85F in the day [10C to 30C.] the actual range of temperatures we experienced was closer to 35F to 80F [or 0C to 25C.] it was chilly in the shade and hot in the sun, warm while hiking and cold when the breeze blew down from the snowy mountains. the wind also flattened our tent and was at one point accompanied by a torrential downpour. I think it's safe to say: you will need to be prepared for all kinds of climate in New Zealand.

even with unforeseen weather issues and some changes in travel plans, my packing got me through. I think I did a pretty decent job in my planning. the key was picking things that could mix and match and layer, and be worn for a variety of activities. thankfully we were able to do laundry twice during our trip: on days 6-8 and days 17-19. [that really helped as well!] below is a list of what I brought, followed by a few notes and suggestions.


tops + dresses

1 grey zip-up sweatshirt
1 cream/coral light crewneck sweater
1 tan long cardigan
4 short sleeve tshirts
2 tank tops
2 long sleeve tshirts
1 sleeveless button down
1 striped 3/4 sleeve shirt
1 grey long sleeve tshirt
1 short sleeve striped dress
1 printed tube dress [doubles as skirt]
1 pajama shirt


bottoms

1 pair jeans
1 pair jean shorts
2 pairs light pattern pants
1 pair pink running shorts
1 pair capri leggings
1 pair long yoga leggings
1 pair running tights
1 pair printed pajama shorts


undies + others

1 striped scarf
3 pairs athletic socks
1 pair fuzzy socks
4 bras + 1 sports bra
10 pairs undies
1 swimsuit


shoes

1 pair flip flops*
1 pair TOMS
1 pair running shoes


outerwear

waterproof shell
lightweight jacket
fleece*
knit hat


a note on shoes: I only wanted to bring one pair of sandals, so I opted for a pair which can be dressed up but are still super comfortable. the only problem they don't slip on and have fabric straps. I ended up wearing my TOMS for midnight camping restroom runs and into the showers. if I went back [and was still camping] I'd bring another pair of easy on/off flops that were shower safe.

a note on outerwear: despite everyone's advice that I bring my raincoat, I somehow left it behind. my waterproof shell is decently warm, through it was necessary for me to purchase a fleece for layering in Queenstown due to the weather going down below freezing. I think a light rain jacket and a heavier coat to layer under would have worked just as well. the hat and running tights were KEY in staying warm while camping.

a note in general: I probably could have made it work with one less pair of pants but decided to err on the side of more since we went up to 10 days between laundry availability. I also adjusted the shirts on this list to reflect what I should have brought. I actually packed 3 tanks, and 1 long sleeve when I really needed more warmth and could have gotten by with fewer light layers. I DID wear everything that came with me though.

one last thing: don't forget your sunglasses and sunscreen. the sun is powerful down there, and sunscreen is pricey. [and so was mascara for some reason?] obviously bring your camera and other things you consider travel essentials, but sun protection is a MUST.

hopefully this list will help if you're planning a summer trip to New Zealand - I know I was pretty lost when I started searching for packing advice. [shout out to Amanda and Shane for their help!] it seemed like most people stick to one island or area, and do either all active outdoor activities or none at all. so this list reflects a balance of everything. definitely bring warmer gear for winter, or adjust this list according to your planned activities, but this should be a good starting place. if you have any questions feel free to ask below.

happy travels!

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Thursday, 12 March 2015

Christchurch // Cave Rock


sometimes, the best adventures are unplanned.

the four of us piled into the car after a long day of exploring Christchurch on foot. we wanted to go somewhere. anywhere. as long as we didn't have to walk anymore.

we used the GPS to search for nearby points of interest, expanding the search from 5 to 10 to 15 kilometers. "Cave Rock... that sounds interesting." we checked the map - it was on the coast. who's going to say no to the beach? we decided to go.


I don't really have much to say about Cave Rock other than it's aptly named: a giant rock, on the beach, with a cave in it. it's not really a big tourist spot. the beach was covered in locals enjoying a late sunday summer afternoon. our feet had recovered enough to climb under, over, around, and through - it might have had something to do with salty air and crashing waves - but mostly it's a great place to just relax.


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Monday, 9 March 2015

Mt Cook // the New Zealand night sky


one thing that was on my "must-do" list for our travels to New Zealand was to photograph the night sky. in Taiwan, at least in the city with all the light pollution [and other pollution] we don't get a lot of night sky visibility. and New Zealand is kindof famous for its starry views.

between jet lag, weather, and the fact that it stays light out past 9pm during NZ summers, my first opportunity to really see the stars was the night we camped in Lake Tekapo. it was still partially cloudy but the stars were shining bright. but this was the middle of the night when I had ventured out of our tent in search of the rest room, and I decided that waking Husband up to get the car keys and then digging through the trunk to find my tripod and trying to remember settings was a bit much for 3am.

the next night we were camping again, this time at Mt. Cook. I made sure to leave my camera gear accessible, look up settings ahead of time, staked out a few locations, and was really excited about the thought of shooting Mt Cook with a backdrop of stars.


the one thing I hadn't anticipated was the moon. it was full, and it was bright. most tutorials out there recommend shooting when there is no moon, and getting away from as much interfering light as possible. I'm going to let you know the settings that worked best for me in this situation, but please know that these were not ideal conditions [and these setting would definitely not get great results on a moonless night.] I set up to take my first shot and, well...


this photo was taken at ISO 800, f2, 15 second exposure. which should have been decent for trying to shoot the stars at night, but obviously not what was going to work for me. I swear, this was taken at 11pm and not in daylight. the moon was just that bright. it doesn't have any editing whatsoever. [the rest of the photos in this post have some editing to try boosting what you can see of the stars.]


after some adjustments I was able to get a sprinkling of stars to show up. not the blazing constellations or misty galaxies I'd hoped for... but I decided to just let the moon do its thing and use this as a practice shoot. [I was hoping that we would have some clear weather later in our trip... which didn't happen.] I found I was able to shoot at ISO 100 and by using my 22mm lens with the aperture fully open at f2, a 15 second exposure seemed to get the best results.


Husband was actually having some fun doing this with me. we experimented with exposures up to 3 minutes [as shown above.] the star trails started showing up around 30 seconds, and anything less than 15 seconds was hard to get much starlight.


I was using my tripod and remote to shoot. it took some trial and error to get the positioning right, but I think I like the shots with a little landscape in the foreground best. the photo immediately above was the view from our tent. I tried hiding the moon behind the tree to get a little more star detail, but the moon's reflection off the mountains and glaciers and lakes was pretty tough to combat.


I'm a bit disappointed that the moon [and later in the trip, the weather] kept me from getting the epic sky shots I was hoping for. but I'm glad I was able to come home with something. honestly, I can't be too mad because one: I had a lot of fun shooting these photos and two: I got to see the night sky in New Zealand. hopefully I have a chance to try my hand at astrophotography again under better conditions - other than shooting the blood moon eclipse [also less than ideal] this was my first attempt.

have you ever tried to shoot the stars? do you have any tips for my next attempt?
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Friday, 6 March 2015

expat confessions: some days you will struggle


life as an expat isn't always easy. and these past few weeks in particular, coming down off the magical high that was our trip to New Zealand... have been particularly difficult for me. I have so many beautiful things to share but I can't get over this feeling. writing is how I process things. and so this is me processing.

I love Taiwan, I really do. but adjusting to life here again has been a struggle. the air here is no where as fresh and clear as it was in New Zealand. working around my food allergies is once again a huge complication to grocery shopping and dining out. and I can no longer blend into the population like I belong there.

in fact, I've been doing a bit of a struggle spiral. we've been trying to make summer plans and figure out if I'll be able to fly back for my cousin's wedding this summer. there's a pack of adorable puppies in our parking lot, and Husband and I spent 6 serious hours in debate before concluding we couldn't adopt one. I showed up to teach my blog class prepared for a semester of new students and found I still have the old ones too.

and then I got clipped by the side view mirror of some jerk's car as we were walking to to dinner... because I couldn't get the scooter to start to go buy groceries... and the consolatory bottle of wine I bought after had a rotting cork so I trekked 30 minutes in a downpour to get another.

but.

my arm is fine. it hasn't even bruised. as far as being hit by a car goes, I think I lucked out.

the students who came back to my class obviously like it. and their blogs are looking great. and they can always do a "free write" while the new kids get up to speed.

it still sucks to walk past the puppies, but they are being fed and look happy and healthy. our lifestyle just isn't conducive to an animal right now.

trying to make plans when you don't have all the information you need [and when some things are completely out of your control] is stressful. but I know our families will be happy to see us for however long we are able, and understand that sometimes things are beyond our power.

I will probably always hate drawing attention and being stared at. but I'm trying to remind myself that nothing I do can change it, so it doesn't matter what my hair looks like or what I'm wearing. I'm free to embrace yoga pants/ topknot/ lipstick if I damn well please.

eating gluten free in Taiwan is a lot more difficult, but I've been [mostly] doing it for nearly 3 years now. and we just bought a bread maker. along with all the gluten free bread mix I could get my hands on. and there's always iherb to order more...

yes, Taiwan is hazy much of the time. the air pollution has made me feel like I have allergies or a cold ever since we've come back. but I've been doing my best to get out of the house and go for walks and jogs. because moderately fresh air is better than hiding in the apartment.

some days I struggle.

and some days when I do, husband scoots downtown in the rain to buy supplies for making nachos. and cherry cokes. and dark chocolate sea salt caramel bars. and I lose myself in a book, or binge watch Sailor Moon.

some days that helps, and some days that doesn't.

maybe this is just a reminder to myself. but if it just so happens you're having a day where you're struggling too, I hope it helps.

some days you will struggle. and that's ok.
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Monday, 2 March 2015

three weeks in New Zealand: our itinerary


New Zealand. oh, where to start? we recently spent three weeks traveling through this beautiful country. a LOT of planning went into the process of deciding exactly where to go and what to see [and what not to.] in fact, we started planning about a year before we left. it's been tough for me to adjust to coming home from nearly a month of travel, but I'm trying to get back into the routines of both life and blogging.

before I start going through the thousands of photos from our trip -3,137 to be exact - I thought I would start off by giving you the rundown on our itinerary. because at this point I'm not sure where else to start! I've obviously thrown some photos in here [and have been playing around with brush lettering] because I can't NOT show you photos. I don't want to give it all away, but hopefully this will just entice you to come back and read more.

about our itinerary

I traveled with Husband and another couple we are friends with for twenty days, covering both North and South islands. between the four of us we decided to do a mix of hotel stays, apartment rentals, and camping. we flew between the islands and rented cars to drive around. the camper van thing just didn't pan out for us - four people in one camper would have been a bit much, and driving something that monstrous through the mountains would have been terrifying. I think we made [mostly] smart choices on where we went and what we did. but of course I'll shell out some advice on that later.

below is a detailed list of each day, with our stops and accommodations, and links to just about everything. this is partially to help out anyone who in the future wants some advice on traveling to NZ, and also so I can remember. there will be plenty of detailed posts on much of what's below in the months to come - plenty of stories to be told! but for now, you can consider this a preview.


day 1: arrive in Auckland

we arrived in Auckland around 8am via an overnight flight from Taipei connecting through Seoul. since we knew we would all be jetlagged, we opted to stay at the Surrey Hotel. this gave us an easy 5-minute cab ride to downtown where we enjoyed dinner at the Angus Steak House before collapsing into an early slumber.

day 2: Auckland to Christchurch

attempting to capitalize on our early-rising jetlag, we took a morning flight from Auckland to Christchurch. [I had my first long black coffee from the Shaky Isles Co in Auckland Airport... and I was hooked.] we picked up our rental car and found some amazing brunch at the Caffeine Laboratory. after visiting the Cardboard Cathedral and wandering around town, we checked into the Southwark Apartments. we then hiked over to the other end of the city for dinner at Mexicano's [which was well worth the walk!]

posts: Cardboard Cathedral


day 3: Christchurch

after a late breakfast [and several long black coffees] at a cafe I can't remember, we decided to hop on the tram and get off at the Botanic Gardens. we wandered for a few hours before making our way to the Re:Start Mall [built from shipping containers] for some lunch from the Tiki Taco truck. our rented camping gear from Adventure Capital arrived. we had some time to kill before dinner and drove out to Cave Rock before a tasty Thai meal at Buddha Stix.

posts: Christchurch Botanic Gardens // Cave Rock

day 4: Christchurch to Lake Tekapo

the drive from Christchurch to Lake Tekapo was supposed to be about 3 hours. we got quite a late start, as we woke in the morning to discover our rental car had been broken into and some of our camp gear taken [and the rest covered in glass from a smashed window.] thankfully we opted for the full insurance on the car and soon had a new one ready to go. we had and amazingly delicious lunch at Black Betty cafe before hitting the road, arriving a bit later than we planned. for our first night of camping, I booked us a site at the Lake Tekapo Holiday Park. we had just enough time to set up the tents and enjoy the view before the sun started to set, cooked ourselves some dinner in the camp kitchen and called it a night.

posts: stormy sunset on Lake Tekapo


day 5: Lake Tekapo to Mt. Cook

since we has been delayed the day before, we spent our morning exploring the area around the outrageously blue Lake Tekapo. we visited the Church of the Good Shepherd and then hiked to the summit of Mt John for an incredible view. a scenic 1 hour drive [or really 2 hours with photo stops] brought us to Glentanner Park Center just outside of Mt. Cook. our tent setup was in a field with an amazing view - the mountain itself right out our door. we had another camp kitchen meal, and I tried my hand at shooting some astrophotography before tucking in.

posts: Church of the Good Shepherd // hiking Mt John // Mt Cook by night


day 6: Mt. Cook to Queenstown

our plans for a full day of hiking around Mt Cook were foiled by gale force winds. after a sleepless night of trying to hold the tent down, we broke camp at dawn just before a massive rainstorm hit. we suffered some tent damage and knew that we couldn't stay another night without blowing away. SO we called our rental in Queenstown and thankfully our booking at the Lakeside Apartments was open a night early. some gluten-free pies from Hell Pizza and a night of sleep in a real bed set us straight again.

posts: the "perfect" campsite // when things go wrong // the many moods of Lake Wakatipu

day 7: Queenstown

the weather was cold and wet. so after purchasing another warm layer, Husband and I spent the afternoon sipping vino at The Winery. this was followed by devouring tasty and much-recommended burgers from Fergburger and some general relaxing. and more wine.


day 8: Queenstown

our rental car had been making some strange noises, so we decided to take it in before another long drive - turned out to be a belt issue and we drove off with our third rental car. we had lunch at Joe's Garage and dinner at Coyote Grill, with a walk through the Queenstown Gardens along Lake Wakatipu and some wine on our balcony in between. after dinner we decided to take the gondola up to see the [spectacular] views of the area. unfortunately we spent almost 2 hours stuck on the way down... but that's a story for another time.

posts: on top of the world

day 9: Queenstown to Milford Sound

we enjoyed a lakeside breakfast at Vudu Cafe before taking off towards Te Anau. the drive took us a bit longer than expected, maybe 3 hours instead of 2, because the road is narrow and winding through parts of the mountains and along the lake. we arrived just in time for our boat ride to tour the glowworm caves. no photos allowed in the cave but it really was incredible. afterward we drove the rest of the way into Milford Sound, stopping along the way for several epic photo moments. I had booked us a couple of campsites at the Milford Lodge, which is just about the only place to stay in the sound.

posts: driving to Milford Sound // a reflection on the Mirror Lakes // camping in Milford Sound


day 10: Milford Sound

we kicked our day off with a cruise on Milford Sound, booked through Mitre Peak. the rest of the day we spent exploring various trails around the area and just being in awe at how completely magical everything in the fiordlands was.

day 11: Milford Sound to Dunedin

once again, the weather intervened in our camping plans. heavy and cold rains rolled through overnight and stayed into the morning, so after disassembling and packing up our drenched tents we decided to skip another camp night at the Hillview Campsites near Nugget Point and go straight to Dunedin and a hotel room. the drive was maybe 5 or 6 hours, but we arrived at the Victoria Hotel with time to explore the charming downtown and eat some amazing Mexican at Del Sol before dark.


day 12: Dunedin and Nugget Point

we visited Nova for breakfast, where the men devoured some amazing-looking injectable donuts. we then headed to Nugget Point lighthouse [about 1.5 hours drive south] and enjoyed a picnic on the beach. after checking into the Park Regis Hotel, we drove out the Otago Peninsula to visit the Penguin Place. and yes, we saw penguins.

day 13: Dunedin

Husband and I spent the morning relaxing [including some coffees and desserts at Mojo] before meeting up with a friend [Amanda from Living in Another Language] to explore Larnach Castle and the surrounding gardens. afterward, we had a barbecue and our husbands commiserated about always having to wait for their blogger wives to take photos. [which, we did NOT take any at said barbecue... so I guess not always.]

posts: Larnach Castle // Larnach Gardens


day 14: Dunedin to Christchurch

the first stop of the day was the Cadbury factory for a chocolate-filled tour. after, we took off to the north, breaking up the 4.5 hour drive from Dunedin to Christchurch with a stop to see the Moreaki Boulders. we stayed at the Southwark Apartments again and visited the nearby Loco's TexMex taco truck for an easy and delicious dinner.

posts: Dunedin the Charmer // the Moeraki Boulders

day 15: Christchurch to Auckland

we flew back up to Auckland and checked into the Jucy Hostel. it was mine and Husband's 11th anniversary of meeting so we wandered around downtown and enjoyed a few beverages and some snacks from various locations, most notably Ima Cuisine for mediterranean and Mexico for mushroom tacos. [have you noticed that we like to get our fill of tacos while on vacation?]

day 16: Auckland and Rangitoto

the weather was supposed to be warm and sunny, so we hopped a ferry to Rangitoto Island. we hiked to the top of a [dormant] volcano which had amazing views of the city, and explored lava caves. that night we had tickets to a rugby match and watched the Blues lose to the Chiefs.


day 17: Auckland to Whitianga

we picked up a rental car and took a 2.5 hour drive through the middle of nowhere down to Matamata... to take a Hobbiton tour! then we continued another 2 or 3 hours up the Coromandel Peninsula to the beach town of Whitianga. we booked a 2 bedroom apartment at The Crow's Nest for our 3 night stay, and had dinner at the On Fire beach cafe just across the street.

day 18: Whitianga

by this point in the trip, we all just wanted to relax. most of the day was spent lounging or strolling about town, though Husband and I had an amazing dinner at Sangam Indian Cuisine.


day 19: Whitianga and Cathedral Cove

Cathedral Cove was the main reason why we chose to spend the "beach" portion of our trip in Whitianga. after a 45 minute drive, some ninja parking, and a 45 minute hike, we had ourselves a picnic on one of the most gorgeous beaches I've ever seen. we relaxed and explored before heading back to town for a delicious meal and great conversation with the owner/brewer/barkeep - at the Bay Brewery Bistro.

posts: Cathedral Cove

day 20: Whitianga to Auckland

after driving 2 hours back to Auckland, we crashed at the Waldorf Celestion Apartment Hotel for the night. Husband and I had one last incredible meal at Orleans - it's hard to say but this may have been the best meal we ate the entire trip, certainly the best meal we had in Auckland.

day 21: depart Auckland

the sun was just rising as we made our way out of town and to the airport. we had a long flight with an overnight layover in Seoul [more on that later] and arrived back in Taiwan friday night.


and that's about it. ok, there's a lot more, obviously. but for starters I think that's pretty good. I'm still trying to ease back into this blogging thing and don't want to overwhelm myself [or you!] so expect there to be some real-time Taiwan mixed in with the New Zealand recap. be sure to let me know if you have any questions about our trip, or have a request for what posts you'd like to see first.

for more on our travels, check out 5 tips for your New Zealand road trip and NZ packing list for 3 weeks in summer.
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