Wednesday, 8 October 2014

Taroko Gorge // swallow grotto


the area of Taroko Gorge known as the swallow grotto is a popular stop with tourists. they arrive by the busload and are given the requisite hard hats, then walk along the side of the road for a short distance. the buses drive down the road to meet them at the end, where they return their helmets and pile in for the next stop.

we decided to add the swallow grotto to our itinerary despite the crowds. partially because - when in Taroko, right? - but mostly because our driver just stopped there anyway.


the swallow grotto is miles downstream from the baying waterfall trail - the waters weren't nearly so beautiful here. but walking along this narrow part of the gorge [and partially through tunnels cut into the mountain] is popular for another reason: the swallows. we were able to spot a few of these birds sweeping in and out of the holes in the rock that they call home. by hanging back from the crowds, we were able to get a little breathing room space to take pictures.


parts of the "trail" have been wiped out by landslides and haven't yet been repaired, so hanging back from the crowds seemed a bit safer as well. this also helped us to have a clear view when we got to the part of the trail where a face in profile can bee seen in the natural rock formations of the gorge. it's hidden in the last photo above - can you spot him?

the swallow grotto is probably the least exciting part of the gorge [for me] but if you're diving though, I still recommend stopping for the unique scenery and the chance for a helmet-head selfie.
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Monday, 6 October 2014

Hong Kong // thoughts on traveling solo


this trip to Hong Kong marked my first time traveling solo. the internet is full of wonderful people who will tell you the benefits of this experience. I'm not going to be one of those people. I'm not going to tell you it's awful and unsafe, or that you can't gain a sense of self or independence by traveling solo. I'm just going to tell you what my experience was, and that I didn't really like it.

I'm an introvert, so this surprised me. but I'm an introvert who still needs to feel connected [if you couldn't tell from the mass amount of #HKvisavacation that showed up on twitter and instagram during my trip.] outside of speaking to waiters and the lady at the visa office, I had only 3 semi-conversations while in Hong Kong.

the first was a chance encounter in the elevator of my hotel. a woman stepped on, looked at me, and asked "American?" I said "was it the backpack that gave me away?" and she laughed and told me she was from California before we stopped at her floor.

the second was later that afternoon when I went up to Victoria Peak. it's a big tourist spot, so I didn't think I would stick out much there. I found a seat in a coffee shop overlooking the city, and a Chinese man sat next to me and kept asking questions, in English, to no one in specific. finally I answered him. I know that at least 80% of the people around me could understand him and speak English, but everyone else was ignoring him.

he wanted to talk to me about the protests happening in Hong Kong, what America was like and what we thought of China [where he was from] and I just wanted to enjoy my coffee and 30 minutes of free internet. I was annoyed [I hate talking politics] and a little insulted by some of what he said. having lived in Taiwan the past 3 years means my point of view is different from both his, and the typical American's. eventually he got the hint I didn't want to chat and put his head down on his arms to take a nap. he was harmless, but I was just trying to enjoy a quiet moment.


wandering by myself on the streets of Hong Kong, not really knowing where I was going and not having a reliable ally in google maps [especially after dark] was not a comfortable experience for me.  I have a fairly decent sense of direction, and a considerable amount of self-reliance. I lived in New York for six months and navigated my way just fine, but New York is a grid system. Hong Kong is a blend of Asian and European influences that makes it full of curves and stairways and alleys that are all too easy to get lost in.

I made my way around alright, but I think the backpack and the constant glances at my phone made it all too obvious that I was a tourist. there were plenty of other white girls around, but they were dressed professionally for an office and I was not. like it or not [and I didn't] I stuck out.


on my second day in Hong Kong, I had some time to kill before picking up my visa. I visited the Avenue of Stars area of the Victoria Harbor waterfront intending to sit and eat my lunch with a view. unfortunately it was another hazy day, and the view is not as impressive by day as it is by night.

the most interesting part of this stop was the old man who approached me asking if he could take a photo with me and then buy me a drink. I declined, he persisted. I was eating my lunch, he said he would wait. he actually walked away and left me for a while and I thought I was in the clear. I considered scampering away, but damn it, I came down here to eat my lunch and see the view and take pictures. he returned with some woman who snapped our photo on his phone while he put his arm around me too tight for my liking. I felt very uncomfortable with the whole situation. I left as quickly as possible, hiding out in the nearby starbucks for some a/c and wifi.

this is not the first time I've been approached by an Asian tourist while traveling through an Asian country and been asked for a photo. it was probably closer to the hundredth time. I've expressed my feelings on this phenomena before - I don't like being singled out and made to feel like an exotic animal escaped from the zoo. I don't understand how a person of any race, especially person with the means to travel internationally, can think that taking a photo of someone just because they are of a different race is acceptable. maybe it's my white privilege talking, maybe there is some strange cultural thing I don't understand, but I don't think it's appropriate.


in Taiwan, I am stared at, but for the most part I am accepted [or at least ignored.] Hong Kong with it's British history was the last place in Asia I ever thought to be singled out as "look I found a white/blonde woman, I'm going to take a picture to prove she's real and show all my friends." like I said, there were plenty of other women who looked like me around the city. it was extremely frustrating to feel like I had been singled out from all those women - why me?

I made my escape, and not five minutes later, the guy walks into the starbucks and sits down at my table. and asks for another picture. I told him no as politely and firmly as I could, while still being rude enough that he would leave me alone. I had to practically shout at him in the middle of starbucks. but finally he left, while everyone sitting around me gave me funny looks.

I realize that in my mind this whole situation has been dramatized, but it left me with a bad taste in my mouth about traveling solo. my retrospective reactions range from "he just wanted a picture" to "that could have been really dangerous." obviously it turned out ok, but I can't help but wonder what I could or should have done differently. having another person with me would have made things feel safer, but probably would not have deterred this man from approaching me. maybe I'm just upset that I didn't enjoy traveling solo as much as the internet seems to think I should?

it's one bad experience in one trip, and I know I shouldn't let that color my feelings on the entire concept of solo travel... but it's difficult. [so much that I considered not writing about this, but of course that means it's one of those things I really do NEED to write about.] am I the only one who has experienced something like this? how would you handle this kind of situation while traveling alone?



linking up with Bonnie, Camila, Jessi, and Amy for Travel Tuesday.
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Wednesday, 1 October 2014

a little blogging heart


this is a blog named ink and adventure.

sometimes I forget what I intended [subconsciously or not] to be at the heart of this blog. over time, I've come to realize that most readers here aren't interested in my nail polish obsession. they don't come here for the random art projects, and certainly not for the gluten free pizza. not that people out there don't like those things... I mean, I like them. and this blog is MY blog and I should feel free to write about whatever I please. but sharing these random things doesn't necessarily mean I'm sharing me - just my interests.

this week in the blog class I've been teaching, we talked about defining your blog's niche. picking one main, overarching topic, and coming up with related subtopics that will help you support your theme.

and I hate to admit that I don't always follow this formula.

once upon a time, I had a personal blog [one of many, actually] where I used to just sit and write about whatever. I would pour my heart out and just let the words flow in their own direction. it was cathartic. and no one really read it.

in 2010 [which seems eons ago in internet years] I started a baking blog. I love cooking, and I love food photography, and it just seemed like a natural step. I had no idea how to promote myself or build a community, but I churned out 2 years worth of solid work and gained a respectable following. had I known then what I know now about blogging, I probably could have been internet famous. or so I'd like to think.

on my food blog, I was always careful to avoid getting too personal. I think that actually was a major thing in holding me back. so when I began this blog in 2012 before moving to Taiwan, I decided that I wouldn't hold back any aspect of my life. I wanted my blog to be ALL of me, a true representation of the wild and varied interests that compose my personality.

but I've realized maybe that's a bit to much. I can put myself into my posts without writing about topics all over the map. being gluten-free and loving nail polish and struggling to run and everything else that is a part of my life doesn't have to be here in order for ME to be here.

I'm not writing this post to apologize, because if you were bothered by what I've written you wouldn't still be here reading. I'm not writing this post to promise I won't ever post another recipe or craft project. I'm writing it to tell you [and myself] that I want to re-dedicate this blog to what it was always intended to be.

blogs, like people, grow and evolve over time. if you've been around for a while [or since the beginning] you'll know that it's true of both myself and of my blog. and I've been heading in this direction ever since I started. even before I started. when I came up with the name for this blog - riding back to Princeton from Boston after the insane experience of the job fair that determined we would move to Taiwan - I had no idea what an insight into myself it truly was.

ink and adventure.

my brain somehow dug deep into my heart and found the words to express desires I had buried so far I didn't even know they existed. I could barely even admit to myself what this meant: I wanted to be a writer. and I wanted to travel, to experience the world, and to live something beyond the ordinary.

here I am now, doing those things. I am a travel blog. and an expat blog. even an expat lifestyle blog, I suppose. in theory I could post nothing but travel photos and that would keep me properly niched. but I'm also a writer. and these spill-my-guts-out posts are just as crucial to my blog as the pretty pictures of mountains and dragons.

I think there's a balance between being personal and vulnerable, informative and entertaining. some days I'm right on the money and some days I'm in left field. that's just being human. it might be a struggle but I'll keep trying. I want to share my adventures with you, and I want to also share myself with you.

because I think the best blogs are the ones with a little bit of heart.

linking up with Nicole for TYSThursday

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Tuesday, 30 September 2014

Taroko Gorge // Baiyang Waterfall trail


Taroko Gorge is easily one of my favorite places in Taiwan. a huge marble gorge, carved into the mountains, full of hiking trails and hidden temples... what's not to love? last spring when my friend Kelsey was visiting, we went down and stayed in the gorge for a few days to explore.


the Baiyang Waterfall trail was one of my favorite hikes. it's farther back in the gorge, so many of the tour buses don't get that far. we went in the morning and the crowds were minimal. add to that some amazing scenery, a waterfall, and a mysterious "water curtain" tunnel... and you've got a great hike.


the weather was not fantastic, but we still managed. it was misty and rained off and on the whole hike. we couldn't see the tops of most of the mountains... but the scenery at the bottom of the gorge was enough for me. the first time I visited Taroko was after a large typhoon. the rivers were flooded and muddy from all the rain and landslides. but this time? beautiful blue waters.


at the end of the trail, past the waterfall, you can continue on along what they intended to be a road. the workers started carving/blasting a tunnel through one of the mountains and discovered a water source. the water kept flowing and they had to chose a different route for the road, but you can hike through the tunnel to where they stopped. it's dark and filled with water, and thankfully past visitors have left some rain ponchos you can borrow.


PS: I swear, I tried to cut back on the number of photos in this post. I just can't help it. everything about this hike was so breathtakingly gorgeous it almost seemed unreal. even these pictures can't show you the magnitude of this place... I was shooting with a 22mm lens and still had trouble fitting it all into my frame. oh well, I still have about a dozen posts worth of photos from Taroko to share.

the cup of coffee that fueled the writing of today’s post was sponsored by Jenn. she drinks her coffee with Truvia + almond milk and blogs about lifestyle + home improvement over at Near and Far Montana.

linking up with Bonnie, Camila, Jessi, and Amy for Travel Tuesday.
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Sunday, 28 September 2014

october goals


this whole Hong Kong/visa business really derailed my goals for last month. but for me, one of the lessons of goal-setting is not just to get things done, but to be more forgiving to myself when I don't.

I couldn't have anticipated having to go to Hong Kong. and it's not the first time I have underestimated the amount of time it takes to accomplish something in regards to my book manuscript. so... live and learn. this month we will have friends/family visiting for 2 weeks, so I'm going to be hesitant to overreach with my goals again.

goal updates:

update my manuscript with the edits I made this summer only 1/3 complete.
new goal: complete this by Christmas
do pushups every day that didn't happen.
new goal: workout [run, hike, or lift] 3 times per week
get back on the envelope budget  aside from the expenses from my HK trip, we managed this.
transfer music + photos to my new laptop partially. I think I have all the photos I want.
new goal: complete music transfer so I have tunes to write to
blog at least 3 times per week this one I managed to do! I'm hoping to get a little ahead and schedule some posts for while our visitors are here.
new goal: keep up the 3 posts per week routine.

what are your goals for this month?
linking up with Melyssa for weekly wishes.
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Friday, 26 September 2014

travel by iPhone: Hong Kong


I got home late last night from a crazy 36 hours in Hong Kong. the short story: I had to go to apply for a new visa, and tried to make the most of it.

the long story: I woke up at 4am to hop a plane, didn't have the right documents to get a full residency visa and will have to apply from within Taiwan, used up 90% of my sim card data in the first 4 hours of my trip, and realized that it's nearly impossible for google maps to pinpoint your location anywhere in Hong Kong. but I managed to see a lot and eat a lot [and sweat a lot] during my brief stay in this crazy city.

my brain has been turned to mush, so here are some iPhone photos [most that you didn't see on instagram] and a few random thoughts about my travels...


Hong Kong is definitely Asia, but it has a very European feel to me... cobblestones and stairway alleys. [I ended up in a discussion about this with a random guy who approached me in a coffee shop where I was trying to utilize my free 30 minutes of wifi.] Taiwan is a westernized country, but it feels like more of an American-influenced culture. Hong Kong is obviously more British.


one thing I was looking forward to on this trip was to eat some decent Mexican food. I was very nearly foiled by google maps, and spent a half hour wandering around near this place but not quite finding it. thankfully I remembered reading reviews for Brickhouse on TripAdvisor that mentioned going into a dark alley behind a stall where an old guy sold fake bags. I though they were exaggerating. NOPE. but the pork belly taco was worth all the trouble.


the subway system in Hong Kong is phenomenal. I was able to use my octopus card to get everywhere on the MTR. no cabs needed. [though due to the specific time frames for applying for/picking up my visa, I did a lot of backtracking] I visited a few places I had seen on my first visit to Hong Kong, but also got out and explored some new areas.

and of course I took a ton of photos, and you can expect a series of Hong Kong posts in the coming weeks...


somehow, this photo is my favorite of those off my iPhone. I think it really just sums up Hong Kong. it's a crosswalk on a one way road, and they're telling you, in English and Chinese, to look left for traffic. because in Hong Kong you typically would look right before crossing, since cars drive on the left side of the road [there's that British influence again!]

I hope you all have a lovely weekend, and I'll be back on monday. xo
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